A
sealer coat of epoxy filled most small cracks, and those
remaining were filled with an epoxy and wood dust filler. The sealer coat
prevented stain marks surrounding filled cracks.
The
deck exterior has one layer of 6 ounce e-glass on the outside. The epoxy was applied
to the fiberglass with a squeegee and 3" wide roller. The deck was
sanded after two filler coats, then another two coats were added.
A mahogany coaming rim is a messy process to but I
like the look.
The
interior of the hull and deck are both covered with 4 ounce S-glass. It
was
my first experience with S-glass, and I am quite pleased that it wet out clear.
The
exterior hull was fiberglassed with one layer of 6 ounce e-glass over the
whole hull, and a second layer of 6 ounce glass on the bottom, over the
chines, and on the stems.
A small mahogany stem strip covers the end grain.
Spreader
sticks across the deck ensured the proper beam was maintained until the hull and
deck were joined. I find the sticks especially important before both sides
of the wood are covered with fiberglass.
The hatch holes were cut out with a jig
saw. The cover was then reattached so a composite hatch rim can be
built. It was repositioned precisely with strapping tape, slivers of wood
and hot melt glue.
The masking tape stayed on the deck until the
composite hatch rims are glued on, to keep things neat.
The
composite hatch rim was made from alternating layers of 4 ounce S-glass and 6 ounce woven carbon cloth. A total of 7 layers. The rim
has a 3/8" deep channel for a 5/8" thick foam seal.
Hip
plates really help with rolling or edging a kayak. I'll cover them with
foam to a 14" width when outfitting the kayak. The supports on the
side of the hip plate provide strength and a place to thread a cable lock for
security.
A
small amount of microballoon-thickened epoxy poured at each end of the hull allows a 3/8" hole
to be drilled through the hull for a handle-hold rope. After joining the
hull and deck together, another ounce or two will be poured in each end to seal
and join the tips.
The hull is temporarily placed on the hull to
check the seam before joining them: 
Joining the hull and deck are
a messy job. For the internal seam, partially thickened epoxy is spread in
the inside seam to strengthen the joint witha mini-fillet that prevents
bubbles. Pre-wetted is unrolled along the inside seam.
For the hard-to-reach ends, fiberglass tape is hot
glued into position before joining hull and deck, and wetted-out with a brush on
a stick.
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3: The completed kayak
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Created February 20, 2005
